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Kiwi Climbers Make Alpine-Style Himalayan Adventure through SPARC’s Hillary Expedition

Tuesday 21 August 2007, 4:29PM

By SPARC

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A team of five climbers will leave for India this week to attempt to scale two of India’s most difficult peaks in the Garhwal Himalaya of India. They will travel from New Delhi in northern India up the Ganges to its major source in the Kumaon Himalaya.

Kiwis Brian Alder, Craig Jefferies, Kester Brown, and Marty Beare and Australian Adam Darragh plan to climb new routes on Purbi Dunagiri (6489m) and to repeat the West Ridge and North face of Changabang (6864m) - routes pioneered in 1976 and 1997.

Purbi Dunagiri and Changabang are in the Garhwal Himalaya of India. They are part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, a World Heritage area. Changabang is a particularly steep and rocky peak. Although it does not have a high topographic prominence, being lower than its near neighbour Nanda Devi to the south, all routes on Changabang are serious undertakings. Its steep rocky profile and difficulty has made it a much more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate and it has been the site of many world-class climbs.

This is one of five expedition teams sponsored in 2006-07 through the SPARC Hillary Expedition initiative, which aims to facilitate inspiring adventures for outdoor physical activities.

SPARC spokesperson Ross Palmer said SPARC Hillary Expeditions are important initiatives that encourage New Zealanders to be physically active, set a goal and take on new challenges.

“Expeditions such as this provide inspiration and encouragement for all New Zealanders to move, try new things and make the most of the amazing physical challenges that the great outdoors provide,” said Palmer.

This is the third of five SPARC Hillary Expeditions. Other expeditions are:


Rock Solid Progression Project

Objective: To free climb three first ascents on three major rock walls in Fiordland and to base jump one of them. Completed in Jan/Feb 2007.


Adventure Philosophy

Objective: To complete an all New Zealand crossing of the Greenland icecap (700km) from the east coast of Greenland to the west followed by a kayak journey to the capital city. Currently underway.


The First Ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok

Objective: To make the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok, 6,940m; and to make a significant ascent in Karakoram by a team of two of New Zealand's leading female mountaineers. Completed in July/August 2007.


The New Zealand 'Lost Tower' Expedition

Objective: To make the first ascent of the unclimbed, unnamed Tower (Cerro Incognito until local name is established) in the Aisēn Province, Chile. Departing in November 2007.


SPARC is the New Zealand government agency charged with promoting, encouraging and supporting sport and physical recreation in New Zealand.