South bucks the trends

Wine and tourism are both bucking the recession in the country’s newest wine region. The first harvest of the vintage has just begun as leaves go gold in the Waitaki Valley of North Otago this week, and the region’s only winery, on Kurow Estate, reports that early-picked chardonnay grapes, destined for their first French-style sparkling wine, are in prime condition. Kurow winemaker Andy Nicole says frost protection measures are on stand-by as some cooler nights arrive, but grapes are continuing to ripen in the autumn afternoons. “As long as this pattern continues we are looking forward to grapes of great flavour, in good condition.”

The winery, which was opened officially last October, makes the Pasquale and Kurow Village wines, and according to general manager Murray Turner it is enjoying higher wine sales than anticipated. “Although many in the industry are having to discount at all levels, we are in the fortunate position of now having to limit and allocate some of our wines to ensure restaurants receive a guaranteed supply. We are progressing the expansion of vineyards according to plan in our two main sub-regions, the Waitaki and Hakataramea Valleys, but some varieties seem to have really caught people’s imaginations, and we may have to consider bringing expansion forward to fill demand both domestically and for export.”

Murray Turner puts the trend-bucking demand down to the different varieties and flavours offered by the Pasquale and Kurow Village ranges. This is driven, he says, by the climate and geography, but also by the pioneering approach of owner Antonio Pasquale. “The Italian grape Arneis is one of Antonio’s favourites, and that is becoming one of our most sought-after wines. It is drier than many other wines and enhances the flavour of many foods. Our Riesling is also the driest and most pure I’ve tasted from New Zealand, while the unusual blend of three aromatic grape varieties in our white Alma Mater is finding favour for anyone preparing Asian-influenced dishes. There is really nothing else like these wines on the market, and that’s also why some prime Australian restaurants are lapping them up, even in Sydney. They are points of difference.”

When even the “holy grail” of Pinot Noir is often seen discounted, the recognition achieved by the Pasquale pinots, with gold and silver medals in this year’s Royal Easter Show, has raised the profile of the brand and enabled the winery to maintain its pricing. “There’s not a lot of this made, and with the European style differentiating it in a major way from our Central Otago neighbours, the pinots are in demand. Again, it is the food lovers who are appreciating the elegance of these wines as opposed to drinkers looking for a bargain – even though we are pricing them below some other top, single vineyard pinot noir. The 2008 currently on sale is only the second vintage we have had available, and I’m sure we will achieve a higher price point that more truly reflects the quality as we grow in reputation – and that is already happening at a pace.”

The Cellar Door operation at the new winery is also “a roaring success” says Murray Turner, as visitor numbers have climbed against the national trend. While guest nights fell nationally last year by 1.4 percent, Waitaki was up 9.2 percent, according to the Waitaki Development Broad. Murray Turner expects cellar door numbers to drop with the approach of winter., but not until the seasonal round of weddings and functions among the valley’s autumn colours winds down.

www.kurowestate.co.nz