New kid on the block again wows cheese judges

Something old, something new, something borrowed something blue … the Kaimai Cheese Company’s multi-award-winning cheesemaking formula has a lot in common with popular bridal tradition. And with that formula the new kid on the block has again had wowed judges at the 2010 Cuisine New Zealand Cheese Awards, winning the Countdown Foodtown Woolworths Champion Feta Cheese Award.

While Kaimai may be a relative newcomer it draws heavily on the old – its factory is right next door to the original 1886 Waharoa Dairy Factory. Kaimai has also borrowed its traditional cheesemaking techniques from Europe; and the blue – well that’s obvious in the names of its cheeses.

In just its second year of entering the awards the Waikato-based company’s medal haul includes three golds, three silvers, four bronze and a trophy.

It would be a respectable haul for a large, long-established cheesemaker, but Kaimai has been making cheese only since November 2007. Even so, tradition runs deep.

“Right from the start, Kaimai has been dedicated to using all the traditional methods that guarantee a real depth of flavour in its cheeses,” says general manager Sheryn Cook. “Much modern cheese is produced in large quantities in standardised processes that allow for maximum efficiency, but are not particularly sympathetic to each individual cheese. Our feta is a perfect example of this. This is a cheese that has grown in popularity over time, which results in many poorly made and cheaply produced varieties on the market – we are thrilled our cheese has been awarded as it epitomises why shortcuts should not be taken.”

“But Kaimai cheeses are made with a dedication to old, traditional methods for each variety. This ensures all the advantageous micro-organisms and flavour compounds come to the fore and produce unbeatable taste and texture.”

That tradition is even visible in the new building that houses its factory, shop and café – it’s a replica of an old historic New Zealand 1920s Butter Factory. Trusses and roof vents from the original butter factory are cleverly used in the design of the building, emphasising the reverence for what is old, tried and trusted.

And its cheesemakers are dedicated to giving each style of cheese the conditions it needs to be truly great.

“Traditionally cheeses were ripened in well-ventilated rooms at ambient temperatures,” says Ms Cook. “For example, Emmental is matured at 20 degrees for one month, Roquefort at 12 degrees in its caves.

“When cheeses are ripened in the conditions they suit – rather than the low-temperature, standardised conditions present in may mass-produced cheese factories – the develop into exquisitely flavoured cheeses. That is what we aim for at Kaimai.”

So for the second year in a row, it’s ka pai for Kaimai – well done!


Kaimai’s award-winning cheeses

Cheese Name Cheese Makers Name Award
Te Mata Creamy Blue Benny Mathews Gold, Bronze
Te Mata Irongate Benny Mathews Silver
Te Mata Kidnappers Benny Mathews Bronze
Te Mata Pakipaki Benny Mathews Silver
Kaimai Feta Allan Gillett Trophy, Gold & Silver
Kaimai Creamy Blue Allan Gillett Gold, Bronze
Kaimai Bocconcini Chris Williams Bronze